What are the best hunting/survival/military knives? And why?
You can check the answer of the people under the question at Quora “yakut knife amazon“
About Ivy
Written by: Ivy
Published on:
What are the best hunting/survival/military knives? And why?
You can check the answer of the people under the question at Quora “yakut knife amazon“
About Ivy
Hunting, survival, and “military” knives (that last one is not a really useful category) can be wildly different, and the best tool for one job is not the best tool for another. Some are great general-purpose knives that can be used for a number of tasks. Others are more specialized. Some are highly specialized, but perhaps highly useful on a daily basis. Some may be only useful in emergencies, but that emergency could be the one that risks your life. Those of us in combat arms tend to be a bit more picky and serious about which ones we carry, both for survival/utility/practical purposes and as actual combat blades (despite knife fighting being almost non-existent in modern warfare). Below is my collection — not every single knife I own, just most of my high quality ones that I’d categorize as “gucci gear” with proven track records and widely held reputations.
From left to right: Emerson CQC-7; Applegate-Fairbairn Combat Folder; Inglorious Amateurs x BTG Donovan; Greg Thompson (Benchmade 176) SOC-P Trainer (red) and SOC-P knife (black).
The CQC-7 is my EDC folding knife for daily usage; I sometimes swap it out with a Benchmade Elishewitz that I keep in my car, which is lighter but not quite as robust as the Emerson. If you don’t like a tanto blade, they can be found in other blade configurations. The CQC-7 is the factory production version of the handmade CQC-6, the original tactical folding knife that spawned the entire industry and is still one of the best. For a mass production variant, the CQC-7 is robust enough that they were carried by DEVGRU SEALs on the Bin Laden raid — so no question that they’re sufficient for usage as a weapon — but they’re also fairly slim, lock securely with a smooth action (slightly on the stiffer side, which I like), are easily operable with gloves, and come in a form factor that can work just as well in jeans and a t-shirt for your everyday carry.
The Applegate-Fairbairn folder was my primary knife that I used when deployed in Iraq. I used this to open packages, stab jerry cans and punch through light metal skinning, cut clothing and wires, etc. It never once failed me and never took any serious damage either despite daily abuse. I also have the mini version (covert folder) and fixed blade version somewhere in a storage facility, but don’t like either one quite as much as the Combat Folder. Note: I am currently about to retire this one to a display case, and replace it with a SOC-P folder which serves roughly the same purpose.
The BTG Donovan comes from Inglorious Amateurs, in collaboration with Black Triangle Group, and is a technically a letter opener, but really is designed to be a covert shiv that is undetectable from a metal detector. If this had been around when I was in the intelligence community, I probably would have loved it; as for today, I got it more to support IA as a company than for any real utility, since it’s a limited edition run of 50. Is it in any way useful as a hunting or survival weapon? No, not at all. On the other hand, if you need something that can pass as a letter opener, but can be essentially smuggled into places you might otherwise be disarmed… that’s useful (for an extremely small subset of people).
The Benchmade 176 SOC-P knife and trainer need no introduction to anyone in the SOF community. They’re in use by countless military and law enforcement personnel, because they are fast to draw, easily concealable and mountable, and designed to be used in conjunction with a firearm. Even though the knife has a sharpened edge, it’s really not designed for that — it’s intended as a push knife. The trainer is also the world’s best fidget toy for playing with when you’re bored.
OK group two:
From left to right: OAF Nation x Toor Knives Kodiak (can’t remember if this is the Gen 1 or Gen 2 as I have both); OAF Nation x Toor Knives Kodi; Triple Aught Design x Amsel Razor; Chris Reeve Green Beret Knife (civilian version of the Yarborough knife).
The Kodiak and the Kodi both basically do the same thing in different sizes — they’re superficially similar to the SOC-P in that they have a ring and are suitable for holding in a reverse grip. The Kodiak I absolutely love, it has a slight curve to the grip that makes it feel almost like a Karambit in the hand. However, compared to the SOC-P, it’s much more capable as a cutter or chopper, without losing utility as a stabber…
Chicago Cutlery Belden 15 Piece Premium Kitchen Knife
The best survival/hunting knives are the ones you use almost daily so for me these are a CRKT M21 & a SAK Explorer.
It’s coming up on hunting season so I will bring my skinning knife upstairs and start using it in the kitchen. For birds and rabbits I’ll use the small blade on the SAK.
Military knives- I guess if your talking assasination you want the one with which you were trained.
Amazon Basics 14-Piece Kitchen Knife Block Set, High-Carbon
The best knife for hunting and survival is the khukuri from Nepal.
Here’s a pretty big one:
Here’s my actual khukuri:
They come with a sheath that includes anywhere from 3-15 tools that can be used for knife sharpening, cleaning of animals, cleaning of humans, and various other tasks.
Wikipedia has this to say about their usage:
Weaponry
The kukri is effective as both a chopping and a slashing weapon. Because the blade bends towards the opponent, the user need not angle the wrist while executing a chopping motion. Its heavy blade enables the user to inflict deep wounds and to cut through muscle and bone. It has been recorded as being able to cleave a person’s head and halfway through the chest with a single blow. At the base of the blade is a notch called the cho . Symbolising a lingam, its primary purpose is to serve as a blood drip during combat. The wielder could also extend their forefinger over the cho and flick the blood at their opponent’s eyes in a technique called “Vishnu finger”. In India the kukri sometimes incorporates a Mughal-style hilt in the fashion of the talwar but the plainer traditional form is preferred in Nepal.
Utility
While most famed from use in the military, the kukri is most commonly used as a multipurpose tool and is a very common agricultural and household implement in Nepal. Its use has varied from building, clearing, chopping firewood, and digging to cutting meat and vegetables, skinning animals, and opening tins.
Fun fact:
The best khukuris (like the pair shown above) are made from Mercedes leaf springs harvested from junkyards.
So not only is it the best knife, it’s also the most eco-friendly as well!
If you’re interested in purchasing some for yourself, we bought ours here:
We researched and visited most of the khukuri houses in Thamel (yes, I KNOW there are hundreds). This is the best. He shipped them to the U.S. and they arrived in perfect condition. The son speaks perfect English and translated our favorite saying into Nepalese for us to have engraved onto our knives. I think he went to school in the US or UK. Good people. Good products.
Authentic XYJ Since 1986,Outstanding Ancient Forging,6.7 Inch Full Tang
What are the best hunting/survival/military knives? And why?
“Best” depends on precisely what you expect and require that knife to do. And all of those three requirements you’ve listed are different, and have different requirements.
So, I’m going to answer in the context of, what is the best General Purpose Field Knife for Murphy Barrett. I say field knife, as opposed house knife, because I’m not taking a bread knife into the woods.
It must satisfactorily perform as an edged tool for cutting and slicing tasks.
It must satisfactorily perform as a cutting and thrusting weapon.
It must be rugged and durable.
Not prone to physical breakage
Not prone to rusting
Able to hold an acceptable sharp edge despite prolonged use
It must be comfortable to hold and use
It must be easy to wear and carry
It must not be excessively expensive.
Now, you’ll note here that I don’t expect it to be anything other than a knife. If I wanted a multi-tool, I’d carry that (I do). Which multi-tool I use is a whole different discussion.
Personally, I have a strong preference for a full tang knife.
A full tang runs the entire length of the handle. Not always the entire width. That means that, at heart, the entire knife is a single piece of steel. Even if the handle comes off, you can improvise a new one and keep going.
This of course also rules out folding knives and hollow handle knives entirely.
Now, for overall blade style, there are a myriad options. As I want this to function as a weapon, it must therefore have a point in line with the handle. As I expect this to function as a tool, it cannot have a full double edge, as many tool tasks require placing the thumb on the spine of the blade.
This leaves me preferring a drop point or a clip point knife, with a spear point or straight point being acceptable. I happen to dislike tanto’s that obtuse point is less useful for some tool tasks than a proper curve.
Next is the grind of the edge itself. It must be something that can be sharpened by hand. This means flat or convex edge. Concave edges require special sharpening tools.
Next we come to the angle of the edge.
A finer edge is sharper, but less robust. Personally, I put a 25 degree edge on my field knives.
By way of reference, 30 degrees is good for axes or other chopping tasks, 25 degrees is a good general purpose angle, 20 for kitchen knives, and less for razors or filet knives.
Finally, we have blade length. There is a lot of variability here. The smaller, the handier. The longer, the better as a weapon. No matter what length you choose, it will be a compromise.
As a general rule, you want a blade at least as long as your hand is wide. This is the minimum length that is easily usable for most tasks.
At the upper end, you don’t want a knife that is much longer than the distance between your wrist and your elbow.
Longer than that, and it quickly becomes too unwieldy for knife tasks.
I find that the best length is about halfway between, about 8 inches, give or take a couple. Large enough to be an effective weapon, small enough to be handy for knife tasks.
Then comes material. There are a number of good steels for field knives. Stainless is not one of them. Stainless is too brittle to make a good field knife. You want a high carbon steel or alloy. 1095 is popular, durable, holds a good edge, but is prone to rusting. Some sort of surface treatment is recommended. But the fancier the steel, the more expensive. Some good notes on steel types can be found here. The Beginner’s Guide to EDC Knife Blade Steels
Finally, there are preferred features. Things that are the difference between a knife that is okay, and a knife you will happily carry and use all the time.
I prefer leather for my grip. I like a small crossguard. I prefer slightly larger knives. I don’t like serrations near the base, as I don’t find them all that useful.
Now, there are a lot, an awful lot, of knives that meet all these parameters. So my favorite field knife is not the definitive answer. However, it is my default, my go-to in the absence of other answers. For me, the standard by which other knives are measured, some superior (and MUCH more expensive), and many inferior, is the Mk II Kabar .
For more, read
Swords are Fun!
Bearing Arms
Wanbasion Black Stainless Steel Knife Set, Sharp Kitchen Knife
I’m going to talk about something that people are scared to touch on in many internet forums for fear of sparking a long “comment war” of opinions. People love to talk and preach about what knives are good and what knives they think suck. There are those who are religiously brand loyal, those who want a knife that fits the cookie-cutter definition of a “bushcraft knife”, and the list goes on. Suffice it to say that it can be a daunting task just asking a community what they feel is a quality knife, let alone the perfect knife. I’m hoping to lift some of that stress of your shoulders and semi-objectively describe a quality knife.
The first thing many knife collectors in today’s’ market use as a gauge to judge a knife’s quality is the price. While it’s an important facet to buyers, it is very flawed. Steering away from the price=quality misinformation, it’s important to look at what you consider to be “expensive”. To some of us a $75 knife is breaking the bank, to others a $750 knife is nothing to wince over. Sticker shock is pretty bad for a lot of us Knife Guys, in the beginning I found myself setting limits in price at or about the $50 range and feeling sick when I had to bite the bullet of a $80 knife. Nowadays I hardly think twice when considering the purchasing a $200+ knife, though my wallet might have some heated words with me when I shell out for one. What I find it comes down to is that you can find a fantastic knife under $200. If you’re paying more, than you’re no longer paying for functionality, but you’re paying for a name, a design, or premium materials which in the terms of typical (and most atypical) knife use is just a luxury.
There are certain qualities you should look for when buying a knife online:
– Size Specifications . Make sure it’s a good size for you, the right length of blade and a comfortable thickness, weight, and width. Don’t limit yourself to a very strict size range. There’s nothing that can be done with a 4” blade that can’t be done with a 3 ¾” blade.
– Steel . Make sure it’s a steel that performs to an acceptable level for your expected use. I’m a steel snob and tend to sneer at “lesser” steels like 8CR13MOV, 1075, and 440C. But on a budget, a well tempered steel is more important than it’s metallurgy. Areas of concern when choosing a blade steel include strength, stain resistance, and edge retention. You typically get to choose two of those things, try to find an acceptable compromise.
– Proportions/ergos . Make sure the handle is a good size to the blade. Some companies seem to really enjoy making knives with small handles for bushcraft and giant clunky excuses for a grip for tactically marketed knives. Folding knives seem to be suffering from very large handles with small blades and a lot of “survival” knives have a groove for 4 fingers. That might be comfortable for one hand size or position but lacks versatility. While different people find different things suitable, I would recommend ensuring it’s a design that works for you. You also need to decide whether you want a folding knife, or a fixed blade. In general any heavy duty tasks should be done with fixed and folders only carried for the convenience when strength can be compromised.
– Place of Origin . It’s not news that a lot of knife makers outsource their knife making process overseas. It’s common to find knives made in China or Taiwan that are sub-par in quality. This isn’t always true but be wary of low-priced knives (especially larger fixed blades) that are made in China, Taiwan, ect.. Even Spain has developed a mediocre reputation. I have found the best knives are made in Europe (Germany or Scandinavian countries for example), Japan, or The United States.
– Sheathing. I think that a sheath is an equally important part of a knife as the blade or handle. I tend to go for knives with a decent sheath from the factory. This is hard to do, and for a lot of people it’s not a big issue since there is a plethora of sheath makers that can make a leather or kydex sheath for your production blade. I would prefer to skip that step and get one from the original maker.
When you combine over 75 years in wilderness with 5 experts take a visit here .
RoverTac Pocket Knife Multitool Folding Knife Tactical Survival Camping Knife
Just like most other such items……There is no possible “best”.
There are literally hundreds (if not thousands) of designs available for this market. Many of these are really excellent. It’s just a matter of preference.
Note that these are slightly different parameters.
A “survival” knife is generally a very multi-purpose item that has many functions ranging from weapon to tool and often has a hollow handle to carry survival gear like water-purification tablets, fishing line, matches, and the like.
A “military” knife may be geared primarily to combat, or primarily as a utility knife. The standard Marine “K-Bar” is a utillity knife that can be an effective weapon. The “British Commando Knife” of WWII is a weapon purely…. Not suitable for utility work at all.
A “hunting” knife is normally geared to cleaning, butchering, and skinning game animals and may function as a utililty knife but is not very well designed as a weapon.
Tac-Force- Spring Assisted Folding Pocket Knife
There can be no single answer. It would depend on where you were trying to survive for one thing, and what other equipment you had, and how long you needed to survive for another.
For most ‘survival’ situations, any sharp knife of 2 to 3 or so inches is fine. You need only survive a few hours, or a day or two. If you have to stay in some place for weeks until they get to you, or you are in a life raft, you may need something else. If you need to cut saplings to make a shelter, you need a big knife or even a machete you can chop with. A really expensive knife may not be good for that- they may be too brittle to chop with. If you MUST get off the ground, you may need to cut small trees… a pocket knife is almost useless for this task… if you are in some kind of boat, you may want a knife that floats, so you don’t accidental lose it overboard.
If you are in a swamp with 2 feet of water, you will NEED to build a platform to get out of the water eventually. Sure you can stand in it for a day or so waiting for rescue… but if it takes a week for them to get to you, can you go without sleep that long? In those areas, a machete is needed, plus another knife or two. A machete will have fewer uses in the desert, needless to say- but you may need to long bladed knife to cut into cactus.
Also there is the old saying for survival situations: Two is one, one is none. If you have just one of a required piece of equipment, you are sure to lose it and die. If you have two, you probably will lose one eventually.
Smith & Wesson Extreme Ops SWA24S 7.1in S.S. Folding Knife with 3.1in
I twould hate to use my skinning knife in a combat situation. I would hate to use my ideal combat knife in the skinning situation. I would hate to use my survival knife in a skinning or a combat situation. although not ideal both my skinning knife and my ideal combat knife could be used in a survival situation. However, they would need a Major edge overhaul after.
I have a few skinning knives, because, I have been on the hunt for the perfect skinning knife for a while. I am personally not a huge fan of the replaceable blade ones.
My current favorite hunting knife is the CUTCO sheraded hunting knife with the gut hook. This knife is amazing. I have no doubt that this knife will allow me to skin several deer before needing to be re-sharpened which is a more than impressible feat. prior to this I used a small Bench Made knife with a large belly, which is beautiful and I prefer to carry, because it’s smaller. The CUTCO is a little big for my personal taste.
my current survival knife, is A 5″ Gerber. I’m not typically a big fan of Gerber knives but this one seems to be task built and for the price I think it is close enough. I also have a 3 inch Tops, that I actually use a lot more. So I guess the Gerber has been replaced. If property sharpened the tops would not make a bad skinning knife. Understand that the edge would need to be different. So once converted to a skinning knife, it would be a waist of time to change the edge back.
I have yet to find the perfect combat knife not really a huge priority of mine. Use the belt space for a handgun.
All that said I think my Leatherman surge would be my first pick, if I could only have one. This knife could be used in any of the above mentioned situations. And furthermore out perform those tasks built knives in some of their specific duties.
Spring Assisted Knife – Pocket Folding Knife – Military Style
My go to blade is the Kabar 1245 Tanto.
It can pretty much handle anything.
It’s a very well designed knife and it’s made in the USA.
Zelite Infinity Damascus Chef Knife 8 Inch, Japanese Chef Knife
Rite Edge knives would definitely prove to be the best survival knife for you. The camping/hunting survival knives by Rite Edge do come with sharp edges enough for any emergency needs.
Pocket Knife Spring Assisted Folding Knives
The kukri is an excellent knife, and everything that the poster says about it is true – But it’s a terrible choice for a survival knive!
By the very definition you need to have a survival knife ready at every opportunity – Are you going to pull out a kukri from your belt when your car drives off a cliff into a lake to cut a seatbelt? Are you going to wear a kukri to work every day with a suit? Carry it around you neck when you go swimming out to an island? Wear it on board a ship or to a shopping mall?… I doubt it.
The best survival knife is a good multipurpose tool that fits into your every-day life and is always there with you. The question wasn’t “What is the best knife if you are being dropped off into Jungle with a film crew following you and months to prepare”.
Victorinox Fibrox Pro Knife, 8-Inch Chef’s FFP, 8 Inch, Black
get into hunting and fishing and camping. i don’t know any serious hunters that carry around 10″ long “survival” knives. they find a good one that works at gutting a deer and carry that when they hunt deer, etc. fishing knives are sharp and can fillet a fish. it depends on situation.
keep knives sharp. learn how to handle them safely. if you’re in a survival situation, the knife you have on you is the knife you use. is it a 2″ folding knife? that’s enough to make spears and fire and shelter. you can figure out how to survive with it. don’t waste money on stuff. do your research. what can you legally carry in the state you’re in? is a 4″ fixed blade knife considered a dangerous weapon in your state? can you carry one that size if you’re hunting?
HENCKELS 8-pc Steak Knife Set
I go with the idea that the best one is the one that you have with you.. But you need to be practiced in it’s use, care and sharpening. A good knife will be a massive help but only if you know how to use it and can keep it sharp.
There is nothing more dangerous than a blunt knife… Or one that is wielded by someone who knows nothing about them.
12-Piece Color-Coded Kitchen Knife Set, 6 Knives with 6 Blade Guards
Simply, the one that you actually have with you.
Personally, I have a variety of edged weapons, because you never know when you may need to cut someone’s throat, scalp someone, or when there may be cheese cake.
Forged Viking Knives, Husk Chef Knife Butcher Knives Handmade Fishing
Okay, I can only give a partial answer, but it will actually be an answer, unlike some of the others.
What do you use a survival knife for?
* Stuff associated with starting fires, like creating feather sticks, splitting limbs for kindling, and scraping a ferro rod to make sparks.
* Stuff associated with procuring food, like sharpening sticks for traps or fishhooks. It might also be lashed to a stick to make a kind of spear.
* Stuff associated with preparing the game for eating, i.e., skinning and cleaning small game, such as squirrels, rabbits, fish, or birds.
* Stuff associated with procuring shelter and warmth, like drilling holes in car upholstery to make a kind of tarp.
What characteristics are therefore important for a survival knife?
* Durability. You don’t want a tool you use to procure food to break on you.
* At least some curve to the edge. That is important for skinning game.
* A sharp point, preferably in line with the handle (better for drilling and jabbing.)
* Immunity to rust. Cleaning and oiling a knife might become difficult when you need the oil to start a fire, or you are out of your mind with panic or loneliness.
* Easily sharpened without special tools.
* Relatively cheap, so you can actually afford to have one, especially if you don’t actually use it often.
So the best survival knife, as far as I can tell, is the Morakniv Garberg.
(Photo credit: Morakniv)
Why?
* It is a fixed-blade knife, and cannot fold. Folders are less reliable. The bearings or mechanism can break, become jammed with mud or other substances, and the handles are thinner, weaker, and less comfortable.
* The blade is stainless steel, not the highest grade, but a step above the usual.
* The blade has a decent sweep for skinning, but also a slightly dropped point for piercing, stabbing or drilling.
* The blade is 4.25 inches long and 0.12 (or about 1/8th) inches thick. That’s a medium size knife, thicker than many but not ridiculously heavy. (If you need an axe or a machete, carry one.) It will stand up well to batoning (which is using the knife as a wedge to split wood.)
* It is full-tang. That means the blade steel extends at full width through the handle. That construction is supposedly the most robust possible (in fact it has some disadvantages, like increasing weight, throwing off the knife balance, and probably being unnecessary.)
* The back of the blade is ground square, with sharp corners, specifically to throw lots of sparks off a ferro rod.
* The blade edge has a Scandinavian or “Scandi” cross-section or “grind,” which is usually said to be the best choice for bushcraft. In the picture below, notice that the hollow grind and the flat grind (the two most common) have small microbevels at the very edge. Not so with a true Scandi grind. That means it self-aligns to a sharpening stone. You just hold the stone flat against the bevel and rub. No need for jigs, special sharpeners, etc. People have been sharpening these knives in the field for generations. Also that grind makes for a strong knife, because a lot of metal remains. It also is very good for whittling, because the edge will not skate across the wood, i.e, It’s “bitey.” The downside is that it isn’t very good for tasks like slicing onions, because the thick blade will bind in the cut. Kitchen knives are usually flat ground.
(Photo credit: protoolreviews.com)
* The handle is tough, comfortable, and allows a number of different holds.
* It is relatively cheap, less than $100.
* Morakniv has designs refined over generations for outdoor work. Sweden has a native tradition of knife craft, and until recently, wood carving and whittling was taught in scho…
MOSFiATA 8 Super Sharp Professional Chef’s Knife
I have K-Bar and a Rhuana knife. Both are rugged, proven and sturdy. I suspect there are ‘better knifes’, but exactly how good does a knife have to be? As long as it does the job it’s good enough.
Forged Viking Knives, Husk Chef Knife Butcher Knives Handmade Fishing
Any knife 5 or so inches long and fairly wide full tang hard 90 degree spine to strike a ferro rod and made out of high carbon steel for a flint striker
Reference dave cantenbury I think he sells a lot of geat survival knives
CJRB CUTLERY Folding Knife Crag
You can get an old Buck 110 folder on Ebay for about $20. Some of the best carbon steel ever used for knives in a classic design. While there is good reason to have a fixed blade, this folder has a neat sheath that is discreet and serves the purpose. The blade is as sturdy as any fixed blade even for rough use.
Mossy Oak Survival Hunting Knife with Sheath, 15-inch Fixed Blade
K-bar has been a long time standard in the military. a knife is only as good as the person using it…..get several, use them.
Gerber Gear 22-48485 Paraframe Mini Pocket Knife, 2.2 Inch Fine Edge Blade
A lot of people don’t know about “Yakutian Knives” it’s had very long history. For a long time and today these knives are used in the most severe conditions. They are very simple and at the same time very reliable. I think you should see them. Original knives from yakutia https://yakutianbrands.ru
Forged Viking Knives, Husk Chef Knife Butcher Knives Handmade Fishing
Anything with a full tang would be ideal. I like tanto tips and single bevel blades. Most people like big knives for survival, but I like mine small enough for EDC and concealment. Now, my hunting/ skinning knives are a bit different and have gut hooks. However, it comes down to personal preference and what you plan on using it for, like Batoning.
Forged Viking Knives, Husk Chef Knife Butcher Knives Handmade Fishing
Mora knives (made in Sweden) are very cheap (most of them are less than 15 €) but are high quality and come razor-sharp!
MOSSY OAK 14-inch Bowie Knife, Full-tang Fixed Blade Wood
A short answer is the best one is the one you are carrying when you need it.
A more detailed answer would be one that is fairly compact (no need for a huge Bowie knife) either folding or fixed blade, easy to sharpen, and has a strong blade that can handle some abuse; in a survival situation, the knife would be used to whittle kindling for a fire, cut cord, trim branches for shelter, skin and gut small game or fish, used to strike as a steel for a fire, etc.
For a hunting application, you are looking for a knife to do alot of the above, usually, as well as handle gutting, boning and quartering game, from the size of a rabbit to an elk or moose. The best value of a hunting knife is one that fits your hand, and holds a good edge. With that in mind, know that a dull knife is a dangerous knife–throw in a small sharpener, or learn to put an edge on a knife with a small, coarse stone; even river rocks work in a pinch.
ALBATROSS EDC Cool Sharp Tactical Folding Pocket Knife
I’m going to disappoint if you’re wanting the best high-speed-low-drag super-knife on the planet.
I’m going with the one that’s still in my tool box 37 years after I bought it for $12.95 at clothing sales in Fort Benning.
The old Air Crew Survival Knife. It sells for a bit more these days, but still under $50. Back then, my needs were simple. I wanted a durable knife, didn’t want to waste my money and didn’t want to overly hit my megre 2LT’s pay. This one fit every aspect of that, and since it was almost at a throwaway price, I didn’t even have to care for it that much.
But dammit if that thing didn’t grow on you, after all those other blades I saw people buy snap, get lost, fall off during a road march, or otherwise become unusable. This one is still rattling around my tool box, even going on four decades.
A review:
Ontario Air Force Survival Knife Review by JJ Johnson of RealitySurvival.com
imarku Japanese Chef Knife – Pro Kitchen Knife 8 Inch Chef’s Knives
Ka-Bar, Sykes-Fairburn, KM2000, Ontario MK3. Used by USMC, SAS, German Army, And Navy SEALs respectively.
The fact they all look cool and are my favorites don’t factor into the equation in the least.
Forged Viking Knives, Husk Chef Knife Butcher Knives Handmade Fishing