What are some of the best hunting knives?
You can check the answer of the people under the question at Quora “best gutting knife“
About Alexa97
Written by: Alexa97
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What are some of the best hunting knives?
You can check the answer of the people under the question at Quora “best gutting knife“
About Alexa97
I THINK ,IN ALL HONESTY THAT CARRYING TWO KNIVES IS BEST. ONE LARGE TOUGH, AND COMFORTABLE ONE LIKE A “BOWIE” STYLE KNIFE AND A GUT HOOK TYPE OF KNIFE, FOR WHEN YOU HARVEST AN ANIMAL. THE LARGER “BOWIE” WILL HELP CLEARING WEEDS AND BRUSH, WHILE THE GUT HOOK KNIFE WILL HELP WITH THE ANIMAL YOU TAKE. JUS SAYIN!
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You’ll probably get as many different answers as there are hunters. We all seem to have our favorites. A pocket knife or a small fixed blade works fine for small game and birds. The little fixed blade knives I make for small game , birds and trout have a narrow drop point about 2 1/2″ long. For bigger game I prefer a slightly bigger knife, perhaps a 3″–4″ blade about an inch wide, still with a drop point. Truthfully, the little small game knives will do a good job on even very large game like elk and some of the guys that have mine use them for that. Point is you don’t need or even want a very large knife. They’re awkward for delicate skinning jobs. I do carry a light folding saw for cutting the pelvic bone on large animals.
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I personally would like to go with the Buck 113 Ranger Knives or the Beretta Hunting Knives both has been working well for me.
The 113 Ranger Skinner is a stylish and performance oriented combination of Buck’s famous Ranger and the classic Buck Vanguard.
Beretta has pretty good collection of Hunting Knives. My personal favorite would be the Multi-use Hunting Knife. Small and easy to carry in my hunting backpacks and does not take too much of a place.
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Depends on what type of game I’m hunting.
Elk or smaller deer: fixed blade with a guthook for field dressing.
Small upland game and ducks: folder with a bird hook.
Big game li…
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If You are asking about a company, there are more out there than I know. Some of the best knives I have ever seen were custom made by individuals. The TV show “Forged in Fire” has shown how many individuals are making custom knives and I’m sure it is creating new knife makers. There are companies that cater to knife makers to the point that You can even buy knife blanks that only require You to put on the scales “handles” to make Your knife. My personally made knives are what I use. I hit Pawn Shops, Garage Sales and Flea Markets and buy old, dull or rusty files and rasps. They can be bought by the bundle very cheaply. Be sure a check them first. Sometimes good files get thrown in because they haven’t been cared for and are dirty or even a little rusted. There are some rasps and files out there that are big enough to make just about any but the biggest of knives. If You don’t want to work over a forge but want a blade of Your making there are ways. I used to have a house up north that had a wood burning stove in it. We also had central heat but it was cheaper to cut wood from my property. At night I would stoke that wood stove full with seasoned hardwood and shut the air going into it down some so the fire would last the night. In that nice hot fire, I would put my rasps and files on fire bricks and leave them until the fire died and I could remove them with my bare hand. They were now as soft as they would Ever going to be and with some grinding and a lot of filing, I could shape the blades that I wanted. Of course once that was all done it would need to be put back in the fire and quenched afterwards to make them hard enough to take an edge.
Toledo steel used to be the best in the world. It obviously came from Toledo, Spain. They still have the knife and sword makers there and have apprenticeships to keep the tradition alive.
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Buck. Great value for the money. American craftsmanship and materials. Affordable working man prices. For fixed blade, a model 119 is good. Or the 124 if you want a big brawny brute of a knife that can take on a lot of camp chores. The 103 is Buck’s obligatory skinning knife. I don’t care about a separate hunting knife. My pocket knife is my hunting knife, my work knife, my everyday carry knife, my fishing knife, my rope cutting and splicing knife, everything. It is the folding model 110, a very old model made by Buck for probably 100 years now.
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Benchmade, Buck, Case, Gerber, and Ka-bar are all great knife makers but a little pricey. Schrade makes some good, some not so good. I prefer to hunt with a Schrade Sharpfinger as they work very well on deer, are inexpensive and keep a good edge. It also works well for caping and quartering tasks. Best part is, if you lose it, It’s only $12 for a new one.
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Of all the knives I have like Ka-Bar , Case, and many others , My Favorite is still My RUANA made in Bonner ,MT. Once its sharpened, you can skin an Elk with it and its still sharp afterwards…
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Buck Knives are the best Hunting knives. Those knives are available at TheExplorer.com at affordable prices and high quality. I bought one drop point blade from TheExplorer and they are actually very good, if you want to buy something worth of money you can checkout their website.
Here is the link:
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That’s personal preference and opinion. I’d suggest a good skinning knife and any replaceable scalpel blade knife as your knife will dull quickly if you’re not proficient in dressing out an animal.
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Nothing too big.
For big game, like deer, maybe a sheath knife with a blade of 5″-7″, but 7″ is more of a combat knife. A sheath knife is best because you might be ripping through the sternum of the deer.
For small game, a sheath or folding knife of 3″-4″. 5″ is a bit cumbersome for rabbits, squirrels or pheasants. I like locking blade folders for most use.
I like what’s called a drop point. That has a gently convex spine leading to the point. It’s good for getting under the skin.
I also have a 3″ blade Case folder with a convex spine and straight edge. More of a gentleman’s knife, but the design intrigues me.
The skinning blade curves upward.
The clip point curves up just at the tip and has a false edge.
Unfortunately, the most common blade shapes are the skinner and clip point, so one must deal with it.
The Buck 110 Automatic at top has a clip point. At center left is that straight edge Case. The knives at the bottom right corner are good shapes for field dressing. I would most likely carry the Bucks at top center or the Pumas at center bottom in the field. That tanto in the center is a gift from an Army buddy, but I don’t recommend it for hunting use. At top right is the big Victorinox Ranger, similar to the knife now issued to the Swiss Army and Bundeswehr. I use it at work in the concrete business. Below it is the old 1983 Ranger.
At top left is a 5″ Pat Smith knife made in Sheffield. It’s a gift from a UK friend and a perfect shape for deer IMHO. At bottom left is a skinner shape that was militarized for some strange reason. At bottom is a 5″ USAF pilot knife. It has that popular clip point I can’t get away from. Never used it hunting, but on everything else.
Lastly, a knife is a basic tool, not the best tool. Don’t turn in your man card for using scissors, a saw, etc.
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Depends on the type of hunting… small game, a small sharp folding pocket knife works great! Same with skinning out pelts… however … something like a deer bear or elk, you want a good fixed blade that will hold an edge and probably a small hatchet (and hammer) to get through the pelvic bone…
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There are many makers of good hunting knives, and what is “best” for you, may not be best for me. Also, what you are hunting can make a big difference on your knife of choice. What you would want for elk hunting would not be best for bird hunting/small game hunting.
The reason for so many makers, and designs, is that there is no one “best” knife. Personal preference, physical hand size, aesthetics, game being hunted, etc., all play a part in what knife is “best” for you. Also, if hunting “big game”, you will most likely want more than just one knife. Likely a minimum of two, of different sizes. Possibly a third, if you will need to bone-out your game, in case you are packing in for the hunt.
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Hi,
There are many but it all depends on the individual user, I prefer a SOG or Cold Steel where others prefer a Bowie or Buck or Boker. Find the one that meets all your needs and go for it.
I would go to Cabela’s where you can handle each one and find the one that speaks to you.
Hope this helps…
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It is hard to find the best hunting knife, as the fisherman admits enthusiastically. However, when you get the person you want, it will be with you for many years. Plus, if you’re in love with Buck, you’ll always be with the best lifetime warranty. Although there is no perfect camping knife, there are many who do the job well. Not all knives are sized, and many choose to take multiple types with them. There is still a big gap between customers about the real type, which will be explained later.
The common features in the best hunting knives are all useful, much less visible than other fishing parts. There is usually no lost ingenuity, and everything has a common function. As usual, when choosing a desirable, the user and his purposes are the real decision makers.
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Getting the best hunting knife in the market will be the smart step for all recreational or serious hunters. If you are always in need of getting the best knife in your hand, are you ready? What if this critical situation had to do with cutting a rope, cleaning the fish, or dressing the deer? Do you proceed to get a knife in your hand? Hunting or camping is a very popular sport or game that attracts many of them every year, from all over the world. It is also important to look for endurance otherwise, we will not face hunger (unless you are a vegetarian). This indicates that it is very important not only to have something great, but also to be good. If you are looking for the best person to use fishing and do not know where you want to see it, see comments Best Knife!
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Before you buy your next hunting knife sit down to make a list of what you expect out of the knife you want to buy. Handmade Damascus Hunting KnivesThat perfect knife is out there somewhere! You may end up with several knives for different applications. The main thing to remember is you need a good knife as bad as you need your hunting permit!
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You ask: “ What type of knife is best for hunting? ”
The type most appropriate for the task.
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Who knows? You just need a good sharp nice that can get through bone and still skin. I love my little cheap morakniv as a hunting knife. I love my Case hunting Bowie. It is a smaller Bowie. I love my Randall’s… but none of them are better than my cheaper knives.
any good stout fixed blade knife with a nice belly in the blade will do the job.
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My personal favorite hunting knife manufacturer is Fällkniven. Cold Steel also makes some excellent hunting knives. No, not all Cold Steel knives are good, and they use some of the most hyperbolic cheesiest and dumbest marketing videos I’ve ever seen, but they nonetheless make some quality knives. If you buy Cold Steel, I recommend something with a VG-10 San Mai III steel blade.
Here are two models I love. The Fällkniven A1:
The Cold Steel Outdoorsman ( not the Outdoorsman Lite):
Why do I recommend Fällkniven and (to a lesser extent) Cold Steel? The main reasons are that both use high quality steel and make their blades from laminated steel; that is, a piece of harder steel in the middle for the edge and tip, sandwiched in between two pieces of softer steel. This creates a knife that holds its edge well but is also extremely strong and not prone to breakage.
Ultra hard steel holds its edge well, but can be brittle. Buck and Gerber both share these traits. I have owned many knives from each manufacturer, and while they remain sharp for a long time, rough usage makes the tip (sometimes even the whole blade) snap off like glass. Stick a Buck knife into a piece of hardwood and twist. I can almost guarantee you the tip will come off. Puma knives aren’t bad and don’t break nearly as easily, but they are made of relatively soft steel and aren’t much good at holding an edge. Blades of quality laminated steel have the best of both worlds: good edge retention and excellent blade strength.
I own several Fällknivens and cannot recommend them highly enough. The A1 model is so rugged, sharp and strong that I sometimes fancy I could win a fight with a grizzly bear using it (though I know better than to try). What’s more, they are relatively reasonably priced. If memory serves I bought my A1 off Amazon for about $200. The Cold Steel Outdoorsman will run you about $120. And make sure you buy from a reputable dealer. There are lots of low quality counterfeits out there.
If you want to go really high end, custom knives from Randall, A.G. Russell and others are excellent, but in my opinion they really aren’t that much better and definitely aren’t worth the price, or the wait it takes to get one. If you’re lucky enough to order a model they happen to have in stock, you’ll get it immediately, but custom knife makers usually have very limited stocks and if your knife isn’t in stock you can wait anywhere from 7 or 8 months, or as long as 5 years (no kidding), to get it!
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That is a question which is difficult to give a precise answer. The best for skinning is not the best for caping. The best at holding an edge is going to be worst to resharpen. A good hand forged knife made from a good steen such as S30V or ATS-34 will hold an edge and sharpen back up reasonably well for a price that most can afford. There are better steels, but they cost more. I have one by Diamondblade which is friction forger from D2 steel, and it is able to get and keep an edge which can cut through a sheet of notebook paper when let go and falling to the ground. It is somewhere around RC58 on the edge with a softer spine. It does not sharpen with normal sharpening stones because it is so hard. I use diamond and then ceramic to sharpen it. As far as my needs, it is as good as I could ask for. I also have a few other good quality blades for other purposes. Carbon steel does well for blades that are going to be abused such as batonning and other chopping chores. It can be easily heat treated to where it holds a good edge while still having some spring property. Most axes and heavy use blades are carbon steel.
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The “best” knife or brand of knife is a very subjective topic.
If you just want a good, quality hunting knife that will probably do what you want it to and not cost a high price, look at the selection from Buck Knives.
Buck is probably the most popular brand of hunting knives in the USA and has been for decades.
While the main steel they use, 420HC, isn’t the best, their heat treating method makes it a pretty good blade that holds and edge well enough and is easy to sharpen.
Don’t confuse 420HC with 420J2 which is a bad steel used by companies selling junk.
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I personally like gerber’s folding gut hook. When purchased, the gut hook part needs some extra sharping. For some reason some hunters feel that they need a really big knife. That is useless extra weight and bulk that you have to carry. I have cleaned elk, deer, and other game. Any knife that you carry should be razor sharp. I learned that the hard way while cleaning a squirrel when I was 14. The scar is still very visible on my left hand index finger.
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Fallkniven, Benchmade, and Bark River make great high end knives in the >$175 range.
For <$175 but >$70 look towards brands like Gerber, Ka-Bar, ESEE, Ontario, and a Russian brand called Kizlyar makes some AWESOME blades.
Morakniv, Cold Steel, and Buck make pretty awesome lower priced knives.
The main thing I look for in a good hunting knife is it MUST be fixed blade, not a folder. Some skinning /prep knives are folders, and good ones. But referring strictly to a “hunting knife”, or a survival knife, you want something that can withstand the elements and won’t break. Full tang construction is important…type of steel that won’t rust or chip easily. And I personally prefer something well balanced that I can throw…Hunting knives typically make the best throwing knives (ie Fallkniven S1, Ka-Bar USMC fighting knife, Gerber Prodigy).
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