Have you used trusted butcher knives, and is its high price justified?

Have you used trusted butcher knives, and is its high price justified?

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  1. Yes. I use Felex blades for most Our local black smith. Good blue steel blades. 3 rivet full shank knives with recap tire rubber handles. After some years of use once the hardness wears off on the blades. They can be redone & hardened again. Well worth the extra over cheaper Chines made knifes. &you can get the thickness you want or duel purpose knifes & such made to you specifications.

    Chicago Cutlery Belden 15 Piece Premium Kitchen Knife

  2. I wouldn’t be looking to pay a lot of money for a butcher knife initially. Instead find some that suit what you are doing and are comfortable to use. If you are processing lots of fish for example, then the Japanese knives are superior in my experience for this task. However if it’s beef, pork, lamb etc, then my preference is American and German butcher knives. As an example, I have used Old Hickory butcher knives and cleavers for cutting up beef. They are easy to sharpen and comfortable to use for long periods and not expensive. Anything with bones can damage regular chefs knives, gyutos etc. so you would not want to use that type of knife to process meat with bones. That’s where butcher knives and meat cleavers come into play. I have a Dexter heavy meat cleaver which gets used to cut through major bones and connective tissue. Not super expensive. Wusthof makes a good meat cleaver, very comfortable to use, a little more spendy, but not what I would consider expensive. It depends upon what you’re intended use is going to be.

    Authentic XYJ Since 1986,Outstanding Ancient Forging,6.7 Inch Full Tang

  3. To me, good gear is always worth the price paid. I prefer to buy things once , even though that means I have to spend more up front. I have a set of ceramic kitchen knives I’ve been using for eight years now, they still cut fine. For tougher jobs, I’ve also got knives in Stainless Steel that I don’t have to be as careful with (the edge is harder to chip, and they’re much easier to sharpen. I haven’t tried to sharpen a ceramic knife yet, but I suspect I’d need to get belts with finer abrasive to even try it.)

    Wanbasion Black Stainless Steel Knife Set, Sharp Kitchen Knife

  4. TV knives are usually total crap. The biggest problem is the blades are way too thin, and therefore not stiff enough to work properly.
    Secondly, the claim of keeping an edge forever, means (assuming there is a scintilla of truth in that claim, which is iffy for an infomercial product) that they will be really hard to sharpen.
    Find a good butcher, ask him where he buys his knives (he may supply them to you.) And buy what he tells you. THEN LEARN TO SHARPEN IT.

    Amazon Basics 14-Piece Kitchen Knife Block Set, High-Carbon

  5. I have a few “High Priced” Japanese chefs knives that are worth every penny that I paid for them.
    However I have also bought many other pricey blades that weren’t worth the powder to blow them up.
    And except for a few “Old Timer’s” brand butchers knives that I inherited from my mother, I have mainly stuck with Japanese Cutlery which I have found to be some of the best cooking knives that I have ever used.

    12-Piece Color-Coded Kitchen Knife Set, 6 Knives with 6 Blade Guards

  6. “Butcher knives” aren’t very specific. There are many styles and profiles.
    I’ll just pretend you mean any kitchen knife because it’s going to be the same answer.
    “High price” is subjective. For me, a $140 general purpose knife is a good entry level knife that is budget friendly. A $60 utility knife is inexpensive to me. Things start getting expensive at $300 or so for the general purpose and $200 for the utility.
    I do have some knives I consider expensive. I’ll use the Konosuke 240mm gyuto with custom handle and scabbard as an example. It was around $400ish. Do I notice a lot of performance differences between this one and my $140 Tosa-ichi gyuto or my $250 Kurosaki gyuto? No, not really. All are excellent cutters with great edge geometry and good heat treatment. They can all hold their edges for weeks easily, with the Kurosaki having the best retention. However, the Kurosaki is the most difficult to sharpen. Not significantly more difficult, but definitely not as easy as the others. The Tosa-ichi is the easiest for me to get a screaming edge on. But that’s because it’s an aogami knife and I have the most experience with this kind of steel. Maybe biased? The Konosuke has the best fit and finish, however.
    However, do I notice a lot of differences in performance between my family’s $25 kitchen knives and my $140 Tosa-ichi? Yes. I’d be blind not to.
    The family knives are weirdly flexy. They need sharpening several times a month to keep up with my standards. It’s gotten to the point where it’s not worth the energy anymore to keep them extremely sharp. They’re also harder to sharpen than the Kurosaki by a large margin. They’re also uncomfortable to use when preparing a large amount of ingredients, like if I’m mincing several pounds of lard to render and cutting a Costco bag of onions. They also have piss poor balance. Yet people leave glowing 5 star reviews for some reason. I’m glad I wasn’t the one who bought em.
    Do I think the $140 gyuto is worth it compared to the $25 knives? Well, yeah. The only redeeming thing about the $25s is that they are less likely to be damaged by abuse because they’re not as hard and they’re stainless.

    imarku Japanese Chef Knife – Pro Kitchen Knife 8 Inch Chef’s Knives

  7. There is a saying that goes: “You bought the advertising or the salesperson verses the product.”
    If you buy very cheap products, you often get products that are not capable of fulfilling their intended purposes, of if they initially do so, they have a very short service lives.
    Sometimes very cheap makes sense when the tool will be used only once and will do the job intended at least once.
    If you buy moderately prices products made by manufacturers that have a good reputation for making serviceable and durable products, you usually get what you pay for and pay for what you get.
    Very expensive products often fall into two categories.
    Good as the very best and demonstrably better than the rest. However the “law of diminishing returns” usually comes into play, and you may often have to pay two or three times more money to acquire a product that is less than 10% better than its next closest alternative. For very demanding applications it often makes sense to buy the best money can buy.
    Grossly overpriced goods that are in fact no better than some lesser priced alternatives from any practical viewpoint. You end up paying for extensive and high marketing costs that impart high status to it, and often unrealistic profit margins as compared to other reasonable alternatives.
    Kitchen knives are not typically high tech tools. A person who makes his or her living in a busy restaurant kitchen may well benefit and be more productive using expensive, high quality knives.
    However, such is not most persons, and if one thinks that simply buying expensive tools, of any kind, is going going to make you a master at anything, you are sadly mistaken.

    Spring Assisted Knife – Pocket Folding Knife – Military Style

  8. They hold their edge better but when it comes time to sharpen them you need to know how…..
    They won’t break when you get over excited and use them to pry something like a ceramic knife may.
    You can impress your friends if you carve at the table.
    Your spouse can’t forget and put them in the dishwasher like a ceramic
    You can’t slice and dice veggies and fruit with a butchers knife.
    A boning knife is needed if you do deboning or portioning while par frozen
    As you can see I have 1 famous table carving knife, 3 working knives, and 2 ceramics to do the fruit and veg. A deboning knife, a bread knife as well

    Smith & Wesson Extreme Ops SWA24S 7.1in S.S. Folding Knife with 3.1in


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